rydra_wong: Lisa Rands' chalky hands on the sloper on the route Gaia (climbing -- hands)
rydra_wong ([personal profile] rydra_wong) wrote in [personal profile] rachelmanija 2019-03-15 08:48 pm (UTC)

Overuse injuries

There is a problem facing climbers in their first year or two, namely that climbing puts a lot of force through connective tissue -- especially in the fingers -- and that muscle gets strong much much faster than tendons do.

So you can very easily have your muscles exerting much more force than your tendons are ready to cope with. Common hazards: "tweaked" fingers, elbow tendonitis.

Therefore: avoid anything like fingerboarding (let alone campusing) until you're through that first year or two. You'll get all the strength increases you need for climbing from climbing, at this point. Don't add any extra stresses!

Fingers: see the description of different grip positions that will be in the various books -- or in the Honnold talks Hollywood climbing video, from 6:14. Don't fall into the common beginner trap of half-crimping everything! Learn to open-hand stuff when possible!

(Also don't go to the other extreme like I did, open-hand absolutely everything, and end up having a shitty half-crimp grip and getting injuries from that, because it turns out you can do that too.)

Don't full-crimp stuff until you've a) been climbing for several years and b) have absolutely no choice. I'm not sure I've ever needed to full crimp? Maybe once or twice outside, but I couldn't swear to it? It puts MAXIMUM DESTRUCTO-FORCES through delicate connective tissues in your fingers and should be avoided whetnever possible (unless you have Honnold levels of climbing history and strength).

If your elbows start feeling dodgy, download this pdf; it contains magic:

http://drjuliansaunders.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/ri_dodgyelbow.pdf
(I see there's an update: http://drjuliansaunders.com/ask-dr-j-issue-223-dodgy-elbows-revisited/ )

I got elbow tendonosis in my first year, and cured it rapidly with that. Had one or two points since then when my elbows felt iffy, and a short stint of those exercises cleared everything up again. MAGIC.

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