rachelmanija (![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png)
rachelmanija) wrote2012-03-24 08:32 pm
rachelmanija) wrote2012-03-24 08:32 pm
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Fauns and one-eyed goblins
We have all left Shunkoin and Kyoto, either to return to Los Angeles or spend some time elsewhere in Japan. Another student, Cari, and I are now on Miyajima, an island off the coast of Hiroshima. It's only accessible by ferry, and in the morning people who live on the island take the ferry to work or high school. The island is larger than I expected, but most of it is mountainous and covered in virgin forest. I asked the lady who owns our hotel where the coin laundry was, and she said there wasn't one! Now that is a small town. (She kindly offered to throw some of my laundry in with hers.)
This is a five minute walk from our lovely traditional Japanese hotel: http://www.japan-guide.com/g2/3401_01.jpg
It's the torii (sacred gate) of Itsukushima Shrine. When we came in last evening, the tide was low, and we could walk across a wet beach strewn with shells and seaweed up to the torii. It stands supported by nothing but its own weight; the pillars rest on the beach but aren't embedded in it. The bases of the pillars are covered in barnacles and coins people have stuck in amongst the barnacles as offerings, and the sand around the torii is also covered in coins. (One yen and five yen - odd numbers are better. I forget why. Maybe because multiples of four are unlucky? (The word for 'four' sounds like the word for 'death.')
Completely tame "wild" deer hang around the pier, being petted by tourists, despite the signs warning that they eat paper and might gobble up a map or a thousand-yen note right out of your hand. I didn't see any deer eating paper, but I did see one staring wistfully at the doors of a restaurant. I grabbed for my camera to nab that hilarious shot. As I pressed the button, a hundred tourists' cameras clicked beside me.
Last night we had an amazing gourmet meal - part traditional Japanese, part Western fusion - served at the inn. I will probably do a photo-essay on it later for your delectation, and also one on the fabulous Japanese breakfast I had at the inn this morning. I had miso soup, rice, kabocha squash, smoked fish, pickles, greens, green tea, and udon with flat noodles rather than the usual thick spaghetti-like ones. Cari had a western breakfast of ham, toast, black tea, and scrambled eggs. We were both happy.
The wind was freezing coming off the beach this morning, so I retreated to the inside observation lounge in the inn, which has hot tea, comfy chairs, a view of the sea and a pagoda spire, and a library! Mostly in Japanese, but I note the temping "Miyajima Story" by Shizuteru Usui and "The Faun's Folly" by Sandra Heath. Randomly opening each, I find these lines:
"On the night that the Heike family met its end, I could see various evil spirits of the Heian era, such as a human being with a black cow's head and a one-eyed goblin, silently walking down the corridor, but were they the bitter feelings incorporated in the votive tablets?"
"It had been the very circumstance that might tempt a foolish faun into using forbidden powers."
I am typing this in the observation deck right now, on Cari's laptop. But peeking out the windows, it looks a bit less windy, so I shall venture out now.
This is a five minute walk from our lovely traditional Japanese hotel: http://www.japan-guide.com/g2/3401_01.jpg
It's the torii (sacred gate) of Itsukushima Shrine. When we came in last evening, the tide was low, and we could walk across a wet beach strewn with shells and seaweed up to the torii. It stands supported by nothing but its own weight; the pillars rest on the beach but aren't embedded in it. The bases of the pillars are covered in barnacles and coins people have stuck in amongst the barnacles as offerings, and the sand around the torii is also covered in coins. (One yen and five yen - odd numbers are better. I forget why. Maybe because multiples of four are unlucky? (The word for 'four' sounds like the word for 'death.')
Completely tame "wild" deer hang around the pier, being petted by tourists, despite the signs warning that they eat paper and might gobble up a map or a thousand-yen note right out of your hand. I didn't see any deer eating paper, but I did see one staring wistfully at the doors of a restaurant. I grabbed for my camera to nab that hilarious shot. As I pressed the button, a hundred tourists' cameras clicked beside me.
Last night we had an amazing gourmet meal - part traditional Japanese, part Western fusion - served at the inn. I will probably do a photo-essay on it later for your delectation, and also one on the fabulous Japanese breakfast I had at the inn this morning. I had miso soup, rice, kabocha squash, smoked fish, pickles, greens, green tea, and udon with flat noodles rather than the usual thick spaghetti-like ones. Cari had a western breakfast of ham, toast, black tea, and scrambled eggs. We were both happy.
The wind was freezing coming off the beach this morning, so I retreated to the inside observation lounge in the inn, which has hot tea, comfy chairs, a view of the sea and a pagoda spire, and a library! Mostly in Japanese, but I note the temping "Miyajima Story" by Shizuteru Usui and "The Faun's Folly" by Sandra Heath. Randomly opening each, I find these lines:
"On the night that the Heike family met its end, I could see various evil spirits of the Heian era, such as a human being with a black cow's head and a one-eyed goblin, silently walking down the corridor, but were they the bitter feelings incorporated in the votive tablets?"
"It had been the very circumstance that might tempt a foolish faun into using forbidden powers."
I am typing this in the observation deck right now, on Cari's laptop. But peeking out the windows, it looks a bit less windy, so I shall venture out now.
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Oh, and we saw several tanuki on Miyajima, at night! They are quite bold.
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I don't really like oysters. (The inn had an "oyster" and "non-oyster" set meal.)
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(BTW, five-yen coins are supposed to be lucky in part because of the hole in the center -- or at least that's what I've been told. Ditto fifty yen.)
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I had flat udon in Nagoya when I was there; I wonder if it's the same kind. Looking forward to that photoessay!
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Also in China, also in Korea. You'd think somebody would've noticed. (The cheap hotel in Seoul just didn't have a fourth floor, to save people freaking out in the lift; the expensive hotel did of course have a fourth floor, but the lift numbers went 1 - 2 - 3 - F - 5. Which I thought was really clever, actually.)
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---L.