Bengali food writer Banerji begins with the promise to investigate whether the foods she thinks are traditional really are of ancient origin, or whether they are more modern developments from the originals. This fascinating premise unfortunately soon falls by the wayside, and the book becomes a more conventional survey of Indian regional cuisine, with notes on its associated history and culture.
Some chapters have an emotional depth and intimacy that makes them rise above the level of a simple food narrative: the one where she visits and dines at the Golden Temple of the Sikhs, and later has dinner with her friend (and famous writer, and Sikh historian) Khushwant Singh; her comparison of the detailed rules and rituals concerning permissible food in Indian Judaism and the Brahmin kitchen of Banerji's childhood; and the early and joyously nostalgic chapters set in her native Bengal, which is famous for sweets, fish, and food in general.
The rest of the book is mostly an entertaining reference book on regional cuisine, nostalgic and charming if you're already familiar with Indian food but I would guess overly dense if you're not. The chapter on the food of India's indigenous tribes should have been omitted: it's the only one in which Banerji never tries the food herself, and it's written in a vaguely condescending manner familiar to me from writings on but not by Native Americans, in which they are a simple people filled with natural wisdom. It also could have used a bibliography,
Recommended if you're Indian, have lived in India or travel there a lot, or are otherwise already familiar with Indian regional cooking but would enjoy an in-depth survey of it.
If none of those apply but you'd like to begin exploring the subject, Madhur Jaffrey has a number of books covering similar ground but is less likely to toss fourteen different names of dishes at you on a single page. I also prefer Jaffrey's prose; plus, she has recipes. My favorite of Jaffrey's is
A Taste of India, which I highly recommend to anyone, advanced, intermediate, or beginners.
Click here to purchase Banerji's
Eating India from Amazon:
Eating India: An Odyssey into the Food and Culture of the Land of Spices
Click here to purchase Madhur Jaffrey's
A Taste of India:
A Taste of India
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