I know. We covered a lot of ground. But don't sweat it. I got the wheel and a full tank of gas. All you have to do is sit back and trust. In the pages that follow, you'll see a little bit of this magical city through the lens of my life and through the food of the people who really live here. Through all of that, you'll start to understand this amazing place that I was raised in and taste the flavors of street LA.

Thank you for picking up this book. Thank you for joining me on this ride through the crooked journeys of my life. LA welcomes you, and I welcome you, with love.

Oh, by the way, are you hungry?

Let me cook for you.

I got that, too.

You're riding shotgun with Papi now.


Roy Choi was already a successful chef when he got famous by creating Kogi, the Korean taco truck. Kogi is great but better yet, it led to Chego, a hole in the wall rice bowl joint that was right by my apartment in LA. Its pork belly bowl, garnished with pickled daikon and topped with a fried egg, was one of the best things I've ever eaten - and its Sriracha chocolate bar and tres leches tapioca cake were pretty incredible too. I ate there a lot and yet not enough, as it sadly closed even though it was packed every time I went there. It's okay though, he opened other restaurants though none will ever be Chego.

As soon as I read the introduction of his book, which ends with the paragraphs above, I put it down and started the audiobook instead, which Choi reads. Papi, take the wheel.

The print and ebook versions of the book have lots of photos, but the audiobook really was like riding shotgun with Roy Choi. It's a warm, likable, casual account of growing up in LA and becoming a chef, with detours into the fall and rise of family fortunes, becoming a gangster and gambling addict, and working for Eric Ripert. You also get an excellent guided tour of LA and its food.

The book ends with the creation of Kogi, which would have been disappointing (I started it because I wanted to know more about creating and running Kogi), except how could I be disappointed when I got to spend six hours listening to Roy Choi tell stories? Listening to him is like sinking into a warm bath while eating a Chego pork belly bowl. For as long as the experience lasts, your soul is healed and all is right with the world.

The audiobook has a pdf of the recipes from the book. Alas, none from Kogi or Chego. But definitely some I'll try.
I was upside down in a pile of dogs, all howling over the roar of the engine, when I heard the pilot scream, "There's too much weight in the tail! Throw the dogs forward or we're going down!"

I was still wearing my full winter gear, which included a down parka, and the dogs bit me and the pilot and ripped my parka so that soon the plane was filled with small white feathers and flying dogs and swear words and blood.


Only Gary Paulsen. He's to wild winter tales what Adrian Tchaikovsky is to bugs.

The true stories behind his books are much more OTT than the books themselves. I hate to doubt a person's word just because their stories seem unlikely considering how much hard-to-believe stuff has actually happened to me, but I can't help wondering if Paulsen just heard some stories and then said he saw them happen. Specifically, the plane he witnessed crashing in the ocean when he was a child on the boat that went to rescue the survivors, only to witness them all get eaten by sharks a la Quint's story from Jaws. ("The sailors were literally pulling people out of sharks' mouths." REALLY?) Or the kid he saw get killed by a deer he was feeding in front of a "Don't Feed The Deer" sign. I 100% believe the dog-and-plane story though.

Be that as it may, this book is pure distilled essence of Paulsen: nature and its dangers and beauty and grossness and violence, hunting and survival and life and death. And flying dogs.

Shulman, a 50-year-old, newly divorced, feminist New Yorker, decides to get her head together in solitude by spending long stretches of time in a family-owned cabin on an island off the coast of Maine. Previously, the cabin had only been used for brief excursions, as it has no electricity, plumbing, or telephone.

Schulman lives almost entirely by foraging mussels and plants and berries, writes, and observes nature. Periodically, she comes back to the city and finds that she doesn't enjoy it as much as she used to. Environmental catastrophes keep escalating, threatening both the entire world and her corner of it, but by the end of the book, the ecosystem of the island is changed but survives.

I would estimate that a minimum of 60% of this book consists of foraging narration. If you have ever dreamed of living alone on an island and foraging for mussels and herbs, then enjoying the resulting chowder, this book will be a pleasant way to vicariously experience that. I did enjoy it on that level, but for me it was missing that certain spark that makes a book truly immersive.

Drinking the Rain: A Memoir

By the author of Hatchet and about a bazillion other wildernessy books.

I read it while staying in a cabin in Mariposa which was heated by a woodburning stove. Since I was alone except for my cats and a truly astonishing number of bugs, I lit the fires myself. This was a new experience as normally I stay in my parents' house and Dad has charge of their stove. (My parents plus nine relatives were all staying in the main house. The cabin is about a 6 minute walk or 1 minute drive down a steep grade, and used to belong to their caretaker. He once opened the window and saw a bear staring back at him.)

Due to a combination of my lack of fire-starting experience and a shortage of kindling other than paper (the logs stayed dry in their shed but most of the kindling got left outside and rained on - the rain is also what caused the bugs to seek dryer homes), I frequently needed to make multiple tries before the fire took. It was a very pleasant, meditative, connect-with-your-ancestors activity, as was staring into the resulting fire. Since the cabin lacked internet, cell phone service, and TV, my activities while inside were limited to reading, writing, playing with my cats, and studying the behavior of fire. It was very satisfying.

To bring this back to the book in question, the other reason my stay was relaxing was that the way I was providing for myself was by writing, and that was the only paying work I did. My only chores were caring for my cats, sweeping the floor, my own laundry, dealing with the bugs, and pitching in a bit with cooking and dishwashing at the main house. I had modern conveniences like a propane lighter, and the logs were already cut. I was experiencing the idealized vacation version of country life, not the version where your survival depends on the work you put into your surroundings.

Clabbered Dirt, Sweet Grass is a lyrical account of the work of a Minnesota farm, arranged by seasons, at some unspecified point in the past; based on Paulsen’s age, I would guess the 1950s. Paulsen’s emphasis is on the unrelenting, backbreaking ceaselessness of the labor, and on how it gives the workers a sense of purpose and connection to the natural world. It’s all about the men’s work, though Paulsen does periodically note what the women are doing and that they’re working as hard as the men but at different tasks. But they seem to lead very separate lives.

It’s written in a very rhythmic, poetic style, which gives it a cyclical, almost Biblical feeling: “to every season…” Though nostalgic, it doesn’t portray the old times as a golden age. The book is interspersed with regular mentions, not detailed but horrifying, of farm accidents, often befalling very young children. The work that gives lives meaning is also necessary for survival, and doesn’t allow for enough rest to prevent accidents due to exhaustion, or to keep an eye on children to make sure they don’t fall into the machinery.

It’s very atmospheric, needless to say. It also has the implicit tension that most of this sort of book has, in which the entire book is an elegy for a way of life that has now mostly passed, by one of the people who didn’t go on to live it. Paulsen became a writer, not a farmer. The people in the book may hate certain tasks or long for more sleep, but nobody ever says they want something different out of life, some other meaning and purpose, or a job that doesn’t require eighteen-hour workdays or risk the lives of their children. And yet some of them must have, because not everyone got forced out of farming. Some people saw a chance to get out and jumped at it.

The book’s introduction is about Paulsen’s encounter with an old farmer mourning his inability to pass on his farm to his children, as his son is dead and his daughter doesn’t want to get married. It doesn’t say whether the daughter can’t keep it up by herself or doesn’t want it and that’s why she won’t marry or whether she does want it but her father won’t give it to her unless she has a husband. The same social forces that made it possible for the people who wanted to get off the farm to do so also often made it impossible for the people who wanted to keep things the way they were. Paulsen’s book gives the old farmer’s point of view on the work; the daughter’s is unspoken.

Clabbered Dirt, Sweet Grass

This is one of my all-time favorite books on food; I'm reviewing it because I recently re-read it. It's a survey of India's regional cooking, with recipes and photos. I have not tried the recipes as Indian cooking is really difficult if you don't have a background in it and know what dishes are supposed to taste like because you once ate them at someone's grandma's house; your results, by which I mean my results, are inevitably disappointing. So I am discussing this as nonfiction, not as a cookbook.

Jaffrey's prose is wonderful and her eye is sharp. She writes about food as one should, as inextricable from culture, people, and place. She also brings in relevant history. When she writes about places I've been to and dishes I've eaten, it's so vivid and matches so well with my own experiences that it made me feel like I'd traveled back in time. (It was written in 1985, so she's writing about the same time that I was in India.) If you want to take a virtual tour of a world that doesn't quite exist any more, if for no other reason than the passage of time, you could not do better.

All cuisines are regional, but India's are really regional, and in America at least, about 95% of them never got exported. Even having traveled in India, gotten invited to people's homes, and eaten a lot, I only heard of maybe half or a third of the dishes she mentions, and only ever tried one in twenty. But at least I got to vicariously experience them via her luscious descriptions.

It's a gorgeous book in every way. If you enjoy food or travel writing at all, I can't recommend it highly enough. It will transport you.

A Taste of India

An absolutely lovely memoir by Oliver Sacks' boyfriend, a love story about Sacks and New York City: each equal objects of Hayes' affections.

Hayes, a writer and photographer, moves to New York City after the unexpected death of his partner. A lifelong insomniac, he wanders the city by day and night, sometimes striking up conversations with New Yorkers and asking if he can take their picture, sometimes simply observing. As a lover of cities and being a stranger in a new city, I found this to be one of the very best books I've read for capturing this state of mind. It also made me really miss New York, which I have not visited in many years.

The other part of the book is Hayes' account of how he met Oliver Sacks (when Sacks wrote him a fan letter), how they fell in love, how they stayed in love, and how Sacks died. It's heartbreaking but a lot more about life and love than it is about death. Love stories, even true ones, often feel generic: the emotions are real but not individual. This one makes both Sacks and Hayes and the particulars of their relationship come to life. Oliver Sacks is exactly as charmingly odd in love as one might expect from reading his books; Bill Hayes is a very different type of person (and an extremely different type of writer) but they share a wholehearted delight in observation, in other people's perceptions and experiences, and in the small details of life that make it an endless source of fascination and joy.

I recommend getting this book in hardcover. It's a very beautiful physical object, with the dustcover cut away to show snippets of the image below, as if peering through apartment windows. It also contains photographs which may not show up well in e-book.

Insomniac City: New York, Oliver, and Me



Thanks to Rydra Wong for the rec!
I found this in my father’s library while visiting his house in Mariposa, near Yosemite. It’s an evocative and enlightening book which tells, in alternate chapters, the history of the Nim*, who are California Indians from the area I was staying in, and the personal history and experiences of the author, who grew up practicing many of their traditional ways. The non-historical chapters are arranged by seasons, beginning with spring and ending when winter begins to warm into another spring.

Lee’s style is alternately scholarly, poetic, personal, and frank. He wrote this, the first personal account of the Nim by a Nim, partly because the existing written material on them, compiled by white anthropologists, was misleading or outright wrong. Some information is left out because it’s “none of anybody’s business;” other material, mostly involving the medicinal or food use of local plants, is deliberately vague to prevent foolish and inexperienced people from accidentally killing themselves.

The history is the usual tale of stolen land and broken treaties, attempted cultural genocide and fighting back. (One of the lighter bits quotes John Muir’s horror at the incredible filthiness of some Indians he encounters while hiking in the woods; Lee points out that they were in a mosquito-infested area, and the Indians had sensibly covered themselves with a natural repellent – mud!) The personal narrative is written in a more intimate voice, sometimes earthy, sometimes funny, often moving. Lee’s love for his family shines through every page.

I liked this a lot, and I think anyone who likes memoirs or nature writing would enjoy it. My father, who doesn’t read much narrative non-fiction, was fascinated by it, and we had several long conversations about it as we hiked in Yosemite. If you have a particular interest in California history or California Indian culture, it ought to be essential reading.

*The I in Nim has a diacritical I can’t reproduce, but is pronounced like the u in put. Also, Lee explains that while the Nim and the Mono speak the same language and so have been lumped together by anthropologists, they do not consider themselves to be the same people. So the subtitle is a bit odd. Possibly it was added by the publisher.

Walking Where We Lived: Memoirs of a Mono Indian Family

Woodswoman is the memoir of a woman who builds her own log cabin in the Adirondack mountains of upstate New York and lives in it, alone except for her dog. Some of us like well-written nature description, and some of us like stories in which nothing much happens but the carefully observed details of daily life and the change of seasons. This is a book for those of us.

LaBastille is impressively but understatedly bad-ass: she does build her own cabin, but hires help and explains exactly who hefted which logs and how; she wields a chain saw and a shotgun, but also has the only description ever of hugging a tree that didn’t make me want to throw a pie at the author. For fans of survival narratives, she has several hair-raising close encounters with truly terrifying spells of cold weather. There's some introspection but LaBastille is focused more outward than inward, and while the specter of environmental destruction looms over the book, there's very little preaching. I enjoyed this. Warning: she interacts a lot with animals, both pets and wild, and some of them die.

Woodswoman: Living Alone in the Adirondack Wilderness

Cold is a loosely organized set of musings on and facts about cold and cold climates, interspersed with the author’s visits to a few of them. Streever brings some historical events and scientific facts to vivid life, like his explanation of how a yellowjacket can survive with supercooled blood, but will instantly turn to ice and die if a drop of water falls on it, setting off a chain reaction. But the writing is just as often on the dry side, a lot of the information is more or less common knowledge, and the choices of what to leave out and what to include sometimes seem random. For instance, his discussion of freezing sailors and adapted pearl divers would have been the perfect place to bring up modern athletes: Lynne Cox swims in water so frigid that she had her teeth specially treated to prevent them from shattering from cold. But you will not learn that from reading this book.

The writing is good, but not so stellar as to make me happily read again about stuff I already know. Worth reading if haven’t read much before about cold places, but skippable if you have.

Cold: Adventures in the World's Frozen Places
A childhood/teenage memoir of growing up in Harlem during the 1940s and 1950s, focusing on Myers’ family and neighborhood, his early attempts at writing, and the pervasive racism that slowly poisons his life and dreams.

Myers’ relaxed, warm style and deadpan humor make this easy reading, though I suspect that the episodic structure and lack of emphasis on the moments of conventional action would appeal more to adults than to teenagers.

View on Amazon: Bad Boy: A Memoir

Donorboy: A Novel, by Brendan Halpin. After her mothers are killed in an accident, a teenage girl ends up with the biological father she never knew. A YA novel told entirely in emails, journal entries, recorded conversations, etc, it’s clever and funny but the form eventually becomes wearisome.

The Girl Who Saw The Future, by Zoe Sherburne. A psychic girl struggles with fame when her stage mother makes her go public. Nothing brilliant, but a readable and unusual take on the psychic kid plot.

A Country Child, by Alison Uttley. A childhood memoir barely veiled in fiction by the author of many mostly-forgotten but quite good British children’s books. If you like vivid descriptions of old-timey life in rural England, and I know I do, this book is for you. There’s no plot, but who cares?

The Company They Keep: C. S. Lewis and J. R. R. Tolkien as Writers in Community, by Diana Pavlac Glyer. An excellent analysis of the Inklings as a writing group. Recommended to anyone with any interest in the Inklings, or who has basic knowledge of them and is interested in how writing groups function.

Here Abide Monsters, by Andre Norton. This bizarre fantasy put the Bermuda Triangle, elves, aliens, time travel, and Avalon in a blender, then forgot to actually blend. People from our world blunder into another weird world where they meet others from all periods of history, and learn that elves in flying saucers are kidnapping people and making them go cold and glowy, or maybe the flyer saucer people were aliens and the elves were someone else, it was hard to tell. Roman soldiers march, nixies attack, and there might be unicorns, I forget. Disjointed and strange, and I have no idea what was going on during the climax—and by “no idea,” I mean that, for instance, I could not tell whether or not several characters died. A mildly entertaining farrago of randomness.
A memoir of the author’s teenage years in India during WWII. Rau and her older sister grew up in London, but returned to Bombay with their mother when their diplomat father was stationed in South Africa. (They tried living in South Africa, but her mother packed them up when she went to a movie theatre and found a sign reading “Indians, natives, and dogs are not allowed.”)

It’s hard to review this in a way that differentiates it from the many other books about people grappling with cultural identity and loyalty during a return to their homeland after a long separation. I did particularly like this one, though. It’s not primarily a comedy, but there are many funny bits, often involving her deadpan sister and a grandfather who reinvents Descartes via musings on the existence or nonexistence of the Indian sweet on his plate. Rau’s ear for dialogue is as sharp as her observation of a country and cultures she’s more or less encountering as a newcomer, as she had left India when she was six.

Unsurprisingly, she gets involved in the political scene. Her mother is a friend of the politician and poet Sarojini Naidu, who comes across particularly vividly, reigning over a dinner party in a blouse printed with the cover of her favorite book! She also meets Nehru a couple of times. Rau captures the excitement of the political scene, as friends often call up to apologize in advance for missing dinner parties, as they’ve decided to get arrested for civil disobedience instead.

The book was published in 1944, when Rau was about 21. It feels very immediate, with little mediation by hindsight. Her thoughts on politics and identity are honest and serious: you can see her growing up intellectually as the book progresses.

But though the content is weighty, the touch is light. It’s a quick, easy, enjoyable read. I was not surprised to learn that Rau became quite a successful writer, author of a number of books and the film version of A Passage To India.

View on Amazon: Home to India (Perennial library)

Jamling Norgay is the son of Tenzing Norgay, who was, with Edmond Hillary, the first person to climb Mt. Everest. Like many famous men, his children found him awesome and distant, both literally and emotionally, and a hard act to live up to. Jamling Norgay was determined to climb Everest as well, a desire that only increased after his father's death; at that point, Jamling Norgay was as eager to commune with his father by walking in his footsteps as he was to match his exploit.

The book is an account of how he climbed Mt. Everest with the IMAX movie expedition, at the same time that a number of people were killed-- a time also chronicled by at least three other books that I know of. The IMAX expedition was not directly involved in the disaster, but gave up its own vital supplies and time in an effort to help out. (This was recounted in the other books as well.)

This is, unfortunately, an "as told to" account, a genre which has not once to my recollection produced a well-written book. The first page is particularly awful. However, there is enough interest in the subject matter to overcome the prose. Jamling Norgay is a Sherpa, and has strong ties to Tibet, India, and Nepal. The hired Sherpas have taken a disproportionate share of casualties on Everest trips and the non-Sherpa climbers get most of the glory; also, the Sherpas tend to climb because it pays better than the other jobs that are available, which is not to say that in any way it pays well enough considering the danger involved.

Norgay is a Sherpa by birth and culture, but climbs as a member of a team, not as hired help; this gives him even more cultural conflicts that he already got handed to him by his mixed heritage, his cross-continental upbringing, and his father's position. Norgay is forced to think a lot more than most Everest climbers about East vs. West, cultural conflicts and imperialism, religion and spirituality, the legacy of colonialism, and so forth, and that makes the book interesting enough to overcome Broughton Coburn's ham-handed approach to the English language.

If you read this book, it will tell you more about Sherpas in five pages than you will understand from reading any five other Everest accounts in entirety. And just that says a lot about the relationship of the Sherpas and most non-Sherpa climbers. (Jamling Norgay makes a good case that Edmond Hillary was an exception.)



I have not yet read Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, but I was not much impressed with City of Falling Angels, which is a perfect contrast to Touching my Father's Soul in that the prose is lovely and it's about a fascinating place and culture, but by focusing exclusively on the fabulously wealthy upper crust of society, it left out most of what I was interested in.

Berendt goes to Venice after the grand opera house, the Fenice, burns down, and decides to write a book about Venetians, rather than the more common accounts focusing on visitors to the city. He has some brilliant and funny scenes depicting eccentrics, like a rat poison magnate and a man who insists that contracts be signed with the print of the right big toe, but virtually everyone he focuses on is some sort of excruciatingly wealthy socialite. Halfway through the book, I was overcome with the impulse to join the Communist Party.

I had wanted to read about day to day life in Venice, but I had been thinking more of the day to day lives of fruit sellers and fake handbag sellers and gondoliers and artisans and restaurant owners, not gazillionaire expats and doges. There was also not much description of scenery or food or the smell of the water, nor, unless I missed it (I admit that I started skimming heavily) did Berendt once eat a cup or cone of gelato. Not bad, exactly, but not at all what I was looking for.

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